Why is my dog pulling on the leash?
There are several reasons why your dog could be pulling on the leash, but here are a few common reasons:
- Dogs oppose restraint. When the collar tightens as your dog pulls, your dog naturally pulls harder. The opposition restraint reflex was a great way to survive in the wild, but unfortunately, it doesn’t carry over to life with humans.
- It’s unnatural. Humans walk, while dogs prefer to trot. Humans want to get from point A to point B, while dogs want to chase and sniff.
- Random variable reinforcement. By allowing your dog to randomly pull on the leash to sniff or chase, the behavior is randomly being reinforced.
Related: 10 Tips for Training Great Pyrenees
Okay, so how do I get my dog to stop pulling on the leash?
When training loose leash walking, it’s imperative that you consider every leashed event a training opportunity. There are many effective methods to train loose leash walking, but this particular method is my favorite.
Start with a walk
Leash your dog and head out on a walk. As soon as your dog pulls, stop walking.
Be patient
Wait for your dog to return to a loose leash position and offer a tasty treat. If necessary, use the treat to lure your dog back into the loose leash position.
Note: Loose leash walking is different than heeling, which should not be done for long periods of time.
Resume the walk
With slack on the leash, begin walking again and praise your dog for keeping a loose leash. Break out your happiest, cheesy voice and praise, praise, praise!
Repeat as necessary
Repeat steps 1 and 2 each time your dog pulls on the leash. While teaching loose leash walking can be challenging, it’s important not to get frustrated. Dogs learn at different rates, so keep it happy and positive.
Related: Positive Training for Giant Breeds
Many dogs realize quickly that pulling disrupts their enjoyable walk, but don’t assume that one training session will do the trick. Loose leash walking requires a high level of skill and restraint from your dog, so take it slow. It often takes months of practice–depending on your dog’s age–to learn loose leashing walking.
If this method doesn’t seem appropriate, here are a few other methods to practice loose leash walking.
Remember, practice makes perfect!
Oh how I wish that worked with my huskies! BOL!
They were bred to pull, so it has proved a little more difficult for me with these guys! Grrrrr!
ღ husky hugz ღ frum our pack at Love is being owned by a husky!
Oh, I know your pain. I grew up with two Samoyeds and loose leash walking was a constant battle.
Kelsie no doubt!! I also have two huskies and they LOVE to pull!! Lol
Gotta love them tho ?
We use a Gentle Leader collar and it solved all of the pulling problems with our Huskies. I like that it is gentle and effective at getting them to stop pulling. They don’t like having their head pulled to the side when corrected so it works great at getting them to stop. They know that if that collar goes on we’re walking, not working but if the body harness or regular collar goes on it’s time to pull like they were bred to do.
Have you tried a halti? This has worked for mine
huskies would require a little more patience I am sure. But I think you could still get them to come around.
I use a fifteen to twenty foot rope leash when I work with a pup or an older dog if necessary.
With a pup it is relatively easy. I teach them all the basics with the long leash as I socialize them. Come, sit, stay, down, halt, talk to me, talk to him/her, pee in the bushes, heel, walk with me, invisible leash,go see or check it out, I never use treats, but I do use exuberant praise.
As I socialize the dog in a crowd I will keep a short lead and tell the dog to walk with me. I will keep it there for a short period of time then find a tree or bush that looks like it needs a good sniff and say check it out and loose some leash, the dog will gladly run off to give it a sniff. When I think its time to move on I will call the dog to me by name and say walk with me. If it does not come I pull in a few feet of rope and call again. I repeat this until it comes to me I tell it to talk to me which means it sits and looks up at me then I praise it lavishly make it feel excited ask it maybe what it smelt or something so it gets used to talking to me then say walk with me, again on a short lead for a while then repeat the check it out. If some one shows an interest in the dog I let out some rope and tell the dog to go talk to him/her. The dog will go to the person sit and look up at them for a pet.
I do this with a pup that has not developed any fears or bad habits yet so it is easy. The same thing will work with an older dog as well but you will have to get to know its personality first.
Socializing is extremely important regardless.
With an older dog I use a cane along with the walk with me. I walk the dog close to me and if it wants to pull ahead I put the cane up across its chest and tell it to get back. I don’t hit the dog I simply hold it where I want the dog to walk with me. I let it loose to check out trees etc at reasonable intervals making the walk with me a little longer all the time. Eventually you will not need a leash, the dog will simply walk beside you as on an invisible leash.
I adopted a crazy absolutely gorgeous 1-year-old many years ago. We tried an obedience class…the other dogs were more interesting than being obedient. I tried a gentle leader…no help at all. Finally, on our walks in the park, I kept him at my kip on a tight leash repeating heel whenever he tried to pull away. He got the idea pretty quickly. Heel means a return to my side to stay there. My current female also required different tactics. I remembered a dog trainer that was on the radio in the1970s while I drove to work. His technique was to change direction every time the dog lagged, got ahead of you strayed too far right or left. The dog learns very quickly to pay attention to to where you are going. These pups weigh more than me. My son adult son has more trouble walking them than I do. We have to remember that we are in charge and smarter than the dog. I like having another technique to use if I need it. I’ve found that not every dog responds to the same methods. Of course, don’t expect a Great Pyre to “come” when they’ve just slipped out of their collar or someone has left the gate open. When that happens I follow them and use treats to lure them close. Once in a wooded area I lost sight of my girl and decided to try screaming as if I was endangered. Sure enough, she came running back towards me. But seeing that I was safe, she veered off to drink from a stream before returning to me to get the treat I held.
I have successfully used this method with 2 dogs in the past. Dog 1 was a foster and dog 2, is Blueberry. She is usually pretty great on the leash, until she sees a bunny, coyote, or hamburger on the ground. Sometimes it takes a few tries before she settles back to a normal gait. I usually don’t mind when she goes fast – I get that she is excited and wants to hurry over to where the rabbit once was so I will increase my pace, but if she still continues to pull, I completely stop. She knows the rules by now and sometimes all I have to do is warningly say her name and she’ll slow down.
It’s a great method, although I do admit it takes a lot of patience. Most people just prefer the tug and yank which can get immediate results, but hurts the relationship and usually, the dog.
You’re right – it does take a lot of patience. I’m still working on it with my two.
Our issue is walking in new areas, he’s great on our normal trails, but gets excited and his nose gets going in new places. So we are still working on that.
I’ll be getting him into weight pulling this year.
Atka is exactly the same way. New, stimulating environments bring out the worst in him 😉
I’ve actually had a really hard time with the “be a tree” method and found that it didn’t work for my dogs by itself. I found that rewarding for “in position” with the leash loose and combining that with “be a tree” works a lot better. I also taught “giving into leash pressure” or “silky leash” so that when they feel leash pressure they need to back up and not be pulling. A lot of the times I will give rapid fire rewards for either of the dogs being by my side with the loose leash. Phoenix will even offer “heeling” or by my side walking when she’s off leash. It’s so funny! 😀
That’s so cute and I’m glad you have a method that works for you!
I taught Mr. N with the be a tree method. It took maybe two weeks of utter frustration but he walks nicely on the leash now except for the odd moment there and now around other dogs and horses.
This can be one of the most frustrating things in dog training. Haley was usually more interested in pulling and sniffing than she was with getting a treat. It helped when I combined this method with turning around and going in the opposite direction. That seemed to help get her more focused on me and the treats. Great tips!
Uhm, we’re guessing there’s no such thing as loose leash training your cat. We just lay down on our sides and wait for her to pick us up. (MOL)
Long ago I adopted a Siamese cat that was leash trained. She didn’t walk like a dog and when she was distracted I could pick her up and put her in a carriage. She liked to ride also.
to stop and to pretend to be a tree or a rock works, but that’s not easy with Easy on the leash, think I need an anchor that he can’t pull me away :o)
I can’t say that that method has ever worked for me. But then again, I have very little patience and I think you need a lot for this! When you have stubborn beagles, I think they’re always able to outlast you.. 🙂
Love the simplicity of this technique. Nothing too extreme or complex! I might have to try this! Thanks for sharing.
This is great advice! My husband is always trying the heel method, but I want to let her explore a bit while we are out and not constantly be right next to us, but we don’t want her to pull either. I am going to try this. Thanks!
Great article, just what I did and many experts tell you to!
My personal tips:
(1) Use longer leash.
Short leash is stress to both human and the dog and makes it difficult to achieve a loose leash. If the dog is not allowed to stop even for a brief second to sniff, leash is too short. I am considering DIY lightweight rope leash because long heavy leashes get under and between legs a lot. I am training a neighbor’s dog that cannot be trusted on retractable leash..
(2) Let them sniff trees, fire hydrants, etc.
It’s their instinct and it relieves their curiosity. Don’t just get annoyed and urge to keep walking. Allow as much time as your patience allows and slowly resume walking and click your tongue or call their name, use treat.. , and they will listen.. Even if they don’t, don’t pull. Why pull if you don’t want them to pull?
(3) If it’s a high energy dog, consider playing fetch at home first. Dog may understand loose leash walking but it may just have too much energy..
(4) Don’t do long straight path. You need to turn a lot to give the dog idea that you decide left and right and dog needs to watch where you are going. You may have to train in open area where you can keep turning and changing directions.. Once loose leash is taught you can do straight walks too.
(5) Carry lots of small treats (Important!!)
Be VERY generous when you are new to loose leash training and dog will pay more attention to you and keep coming near and make eye contacts. Teach commands while walking especially “come”. This helps both loose leash training and training with distractions. A lot of dogs don’t listen to commands outside because you don’t do training outside. You can fade out the treats as dog gets better but don’t remove rewarding entirely.
I have used this method in training golden retrievers for personal pets and to be registered therapy dogs. Another method that I’ve had success with is:
A.) Your dog should know the SIT command. Have the dog sit at your left side (I use a 5′ loose lease while training and once trained, I use a 4′ leash when taking dog into nursing homes, schools, hospital, etc.)
B)Holding the leash in both hands, I gently slap my left leg and say “Walk” then step out with left leg. (You can do right side if that is more comfortable for you.) Just be consistent.
C.) Walk briskly with dog at your side
D.) When the dog starts pulling ahead, pivot 180 degrees. The dog will then have to pivot and run to catch up with you. Once the dog is at your side again, reward dog with a small treat.
E.) Keep using this pivot technique whenever the dog pulls ahead. Mix 180 degree turns with 90 degree turns left & right. This keeps the dog guessing and teaches it that you are the leader of the pack & you set the direction. The dog learns she needs to stay close to your side and will be rewarded for doing so. (Treats are used more liberally in the beginning. After the dog is trained, use pats on the head and “Good, Dog” more than food treats)
F) I have used both methods and have had success. Try both to see which one your dog responses best to.
G.) It takes time and the amount of time will vary by breed, age, and personality of dog. Main thing is: BE CONSISTANT & Patience. IMHO there are few things better than a well trained, loving dog. I promise by training your dog, your relationship with the animal will grow and he/she will be a contributing family member instead of an unruly guest.
That is pretty much what I do. However, I have not found that treats are necessary. My dogs are Great Pyres so their instinct is to protect me. If a dog has been abused it is a different story and treats can help. Always be aware of your surroundings if you have a dog that has been abused. See my comments in a previous post.
I have a dog (basset hound) who is great until we get to dogs behind fences or other dogs being walked. Then his “bark/chase/attack blinders” come on. Do I just let him bark until it is out of his system and then reward him?Seems I would be rewarding behavior I don’t want.
I am in the process of training my dog to walk with a loose leash. She is a 2- 1/2 year old rescued German shepherd. She’s learning but it’s taking a lot of patience and hot dogs!!!
I’ve tried this, and the pivot technique, for the last 3 months and there’s been no let up in pulling. We’ve tried a gentle-leader head collar, a Halti harness, a gentle leader harness and a flat collar. Again, nothing. A walk around the block takes 40 minutes, she gets all of her daily ration in food as treats as we walk, and STILL nothing. I am at my wits end here!
My 6 month old terrier cross wants to pull all the time, not to be at the head of the pack but just to sniff & explore EVERYTHING!! if I stopped every time we literally wouldn’t get anywhere, she’ll walk well if I’m holding a treat but must I really spend the whole walk dangling a scruffy bite in front of her?? Any thoughts??
Try walking with your dog at your side with a shorter lead. As you start walking, physically take your knee close to the head and pass/cross over in front of them while gently guiding their head to turn in the opposite direction. Don’t allow them to change your course or their head to avoid your knee. When you physically turn around and cross over IN FRONT of them while you turn their head, you are sending the signal that you’re in charge. Now walk the opposite way and repeat the turn when you are ready. You will look silly turning around and around, but your dog will get the clue. Don’t allow them to decide when to turn back. Physically keep your knee close to their head at every turn. Once they get the hang of it they won’t pull anymore and they let you lead. Evwrytime you walk keep practicing turning in front of their head. Then you can initiate the loose leash once they are understanding you are the leader. It REALLY does work!
Great dog walking tips, we will be sharing this with our pet waste removal customers in Calgary.
My dog is a large rescue Golden Retriever. He is now 8years old. He will walk on a leash 10 feet then sit down or lie down. No amount of treats, forward tugs or sweet talk will get him going until you take the leash off and walk away. At that time he will sit or lie there until he is ready to move
My petique pet uses a reflective leash with shock absorbing feature and I’m totally amazed! It’s a reflectiful Leash and it really make walks with my Fido more enjoyable. I think heavier dogs need shorter leashes because they tug and pull 🙂
While this is very important, we must also remember with LGD’s they are first of all protective. I had a dog trainer who knew nothing about Great Pyrenees tell me I should always be put the door first. That is not correct and I let mine out first but with manners. By that I mean they didn’t just run the second they were out. I taught them (in leash) to go outside and sit until I was out the door.
Leash walking then came second. And I agree on that. I have had 4 over the past 15 years and currently on #5, a four month old puppy GP.
Great ideas I have two dogs it’s tough going trying to get my large Lab rRetriever to behave consistently. My older dog is a dream on lead but the pup gets over giddy and very bad mannered . I have the halti no pull , she won’t come when it’s time to put it on !
I’ve tried tree after reading this I think I just need to stick with it
My dog absolutely loves tugging and biting the leash. I’ll stop and not move and she thinks it’s play time. Any suggestions?
I love Great Pyrenees! We have 6…they are like potato chips, but better! Our puppy Yuuki is about 18 weeks old and adorably sweet. But she pulls on her leash constantly. Though shw be small, she is strong. I had been doing the change direction method which works eventually for that training session, then I have to start it again next time I work with her. I am going to try your method…makes sense. But would a harness work better than a martingale collar? Thanks in advance. Your dogs are beautiful and I’m grateful for your help!